Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.